Season’s greetings

Dearly beloved, we are gathered today to mourn the loss of my 52-month old MacBook Pro, upon whose recent demise I shall blame my prolonged absence from the blogosphere.

But guys, the craziest thing happened.  The season changed, seemingly overnight, from summer to winter.  I suppose there were a few brief weeks of “fall,” when I could look super cool in my pleather jacket.  Then suddenly the rains came and soaked us for a fortnight, dropping the temperatures outside and, more noticeably, indoors.

Yes, this is the season of chocolate, I’ve decided.  For evolutionary reasons, once the damp cold seeps into my bones, I begin to crave cocoa in all its forms.  This has happened before, during my sojourn in the Chilean winter. Similar to Israel, the winter there is short but vicious, turning everything damp and gloomy.  The buildings, designed for a summery clime, lack insulation and central heating.

Speaking of which, did I ever tell you about the time I almost killed my host mother?  No?  Well, mi’ija, in Chile, estufas are the space heaters of choice.  These clunky heaters run on big natural gas canisters.  To light one, you turn on the gas and hold a match to the grate.

One day, I came down to eat an early lunch before heading to the university.  I turned on the estufa in the dining room.  Nothing happened when I tried to light it.  Late for work, I scarfed down my meal and headed out.  Once I arrived in the English pedagogy building, I realized my error.  A sick feeling sunk through me–I remember gazing helplessly at the dark paneled walls of the corridor as I foresaw my sad future, the headline scrolling across CNN–“American intern murders elderly Chilean host mother with gas poisoning/explosion.”  Would I be extradited?  Would Mount Holyoke disown me?

Desperately, I dialed Isabel’s number, and said something along the lines of, “ARE YOU ALIVE?  I left the gas on!  Please don’t light any matches or turn on any lights!”  Except in mangled, breathless Spanish.

She was alive, and told me the gas canister had been empty–therefore the lack of flame.  And that is how I nearly killed my Chilean host mother.

Anyways, chocolate.  In Chile, Isabel would buy me giant milk chocolate bars, and I also spent many of my own pesos on them.  I would carry around these embarrassingly huge bars in my purse, constantly nibbling.  It turns out that chocolate is a great accompaniment to anything, be it a cup of thick Nespresso, flank steak, or a lesson on Henrik Ibsen.  (Although macaroons suit the latter best.)

Let’s face it, I lack personal insulation, and my body wants me to pack on some blubber to get through the chilly months.  So I find myself bending over the oven on a Saturday night, the heater cranked to 30 degrees Celsius (I think the average high on Mercury), making the chocolatiest double chocolate zucchini bread ever (Betty Crocker does it again), or dreaming of a steaming mug of hot chocolate paired with a toasty s’more.  I should go have dinner…

My body’s scheme is working.  I think I have a tummy!  If I keep chowing down on the sweet stuff, maybe I’ll even be able to feel my fingers again.

Dust in the wind

Now that I’ve concluded my day-trips for the season, I’m back to quotidian life–the office, some volunteering, study groups, laundry, cooking, cleaning, collecting houseplants, the regular.  But even the routine is not quite routine here.

Part of it is just that living adultly is still new to me.  I’m doing all sorts of things on my own, hey!  And so what if mopping sometimes results in breaking the shower, or dusting in a sore hamstring.  This week, I cooked rice for a study group.  It didn’t turn out as fluffy as I wanted, yet for the first time my tadik was unscorched.  “Hm,” I thought.  “Well, tadik’s not very good as leftovers.  And I’m the only one around.”  Standing by the kitchen sink looking up the mountain toward the Dan Carmel, eating a bowl full of fresh tadik, I realized the joy of independence.

But a lot of it is my environment.  The air is different, for one.  Hamseen has arrived.  While it’s not as if I can see motes floating in front of me, looking out to sea, the horizon is obscured by a thick haze.  Apparently this dust has traveled up to Israel from the Egyptian desert in a climatological Exodus.  Maybe the hovering dust is the Middle Eastern equivalent of Midwestern leaves falling in autumn?

Even the simple act of walking is different here.  You know, being on a mountain, everything is steep.  Plus, in the Bahá’í gardens, most of the paths are gravel.  I have two pairs of shoes that I wear to the office: my flats and my heels.  They are both practical shoes, unobtrusive black leather with plenteous arch support.  Even so, walking in heels on gravel poses a challenge–I mean, walking in heels is a challenge, period.  So I do an ungraceful slow march.  It’s rather like trying to walk on snow with a veneer of ice–I need to dig in my heels but also keep moving.  I thought I was doing a pretty good job until the other day when not one but two people, after watching me, commented sympathetically on the difficulty of walking with heels here.  “It’s such a challenge!  Your poor heels!”  And then someone pointed out to me that one heel is actually broken, causing a distinctive “clip-clop” whenever I walk on hard floors.  She recommended a cobbler.  My experience with cobblers is limited to the shoemaker and the elves.

Fruit.  Let’s talk about fruit.  The Persian coworkers at my office are wonderful people for all sorts of reasons, and one reason is that they always bring fresh fruit to break time.  (I, on the other hand, contribute the occasional sugary, buttery baked good.)  Mango, pomegranate, oranges, grapes, apple, pear, peach, nectarines… and recently, we’ve entered fruit territory that is foreign to me.  There’s lychee–inside the bumpy red skin is white flesh with a subtle fragrant taste.  Figs are delicious in dried, jam, or Newton form.  In natural form, however, they are just weird, mushy and seedy.  And guava.  I tried it because I thought it was a strange seedy pear.  No–with its overripe scent and nearly salty flavor, it is definitely not to be compared with pears.  There is pomelo, a huge citrus (actually, citrus grandis) with a super thick rind that needs to be practically sawed off and a bitter membrane around the flesh that also needs to be peeled off.  It’s not for the lazy fructarian!   It tastes like a tentative grapefruit and looks like it belongs among the many balls from gym class that always threatened me, maybe a yellow medicine ball or the enlarged tennis ball that smacked me in the face.  “Ok, guys, today we’re going to play pomelo.”

Monsoon, monlater

On the walk to lunch, I felt it: raindrops!  Just a few tentative beads falling from an ambivalent sunny-cloudy sky, barely tangible.  I stretch out my arms and stop for a moment, turning to my friend–“This is the first rain I’ve felt in three months!”  Reportedly, it’s been raining in Akka and two weeks ago for a few minutes in Haifa, but I missed it.

After lunch, I step outside and it’s raining in earnest, fat drops and the fragrance of ozone.  I hesitate under the overhang, considering taking the tunnel back to my office.  But I choose to be impractical and to take a walk through the garden in the rain.  It’s deserted, and I appreciate my solitary stroll, pretending that my skin is like the soil thirstily drinking up the rain.  By the time I get to my building, my shirt is dappled and my hair has curled into messy ringlets.  I might work indoors all day, but that doesn’t mean my existence must be hermetic in either sense of the word.

Navel-gazing, but arboreally.

Navel-gazing, arboreally.  It’s only natural.

It’s been a while since I’ve written about awkward interactions, hasn’t it?  I’m sure they’re still happening to me (or more aptly I’m happening to them).  Maybe I’m just acclimated and no longer even notice.   Maybe I’ve finally broken out of my chrysalis of shyness into a gorgeously non-awkward social butterfly (lolz, yeah right).  Or maybe I’m getting too contemplative–goodness, I keep writing about lying in the grass and soaking up the rain, even though the majority of my time is spent in the land of Excel spreadsheets!

Equinox

I was told that on Yom Kippur, the streets would be absolutely desolate.  The Day of Atonement is a very solemn Holy Day for Jews, who keep a 25 hour fast.  Yet, a few cars pass by.  Kids shriek as they play on their bikes and toy cars.  And there are a lot of firecrackers.  When I first arrived, I was unsure what to make of the sounds of explosions that punctuated the evening.  I mean, it didn’t exactly reassure me about the security situation here.  It turns out that the people here use a lot of fireworks to celebrate engagements, which, given how many fireworks get set off, means that there must be hordes of fiances filling this city.  But Yom Kippur and fireworks don’t go together so well.  Two theories were circulating about why the day was so noisy.  (1) The Arabs were trying to annoy the Jews or (2) the Jews were celebrating their atonement.  Somehow I find the latter a bit less likely…

***

Even though I spend most of my time under fluorescent lights in an air conditioned office, I can tell the air is changing.  I no longer fully thaw out on my walk home.  The highs are only in the low eighties.  Yesterday, some clouds hung over Mount Carmel, promising rain with their gray underbellies.  Nothing yet.  When I was walking across the Arc at sunset, I paused to take in the thunderheads poised above the bay, edged with pink.  I wasn’t the only one impressed; I passed two others who pulled out their camera phones to record the sky.  I gave up on using the camera in my phone as it blurs everything, so I try to capture the vista in my mind.

Yesterday I stood on grass for the first time in a while.  It was a small patch of lawn in front of an apartment building.  I rarely have the opportunity to leave the pavement or the gravel paths I take through the gardens to my office.  I need to find a quiet city park and just lie in the grass for a while like I sometimes do, close to the dirt and the bugs and the earth.  Humility, from humus, soil.  Getting close to the soil.  Walt Whitman knew the sanctity of those leaves underfoot:

A child said, What is the grass? fetching it to me with full hands;
How could I answer the child?. . . .I do not know what it is any more than he.
 
I guess it must be the flag of my disposition, out of hopeful green stuff woven.
 
Or I guess it is the handkerchief of the Lord,
A scented gift and remembrancer designedly dropped,
Bearing the owner’s name someway in the corners, that we may see and remark, and say Whose?
 
Or I guess the grass is itself a child. . . .the produced babe of the vegetation.
 
Or I guess it is a uniform hieroglyphic…
 
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